Nawruz in Brooklyn

It has been long since I posted anything. My last post was a diversion from my original intend of writing history pieces; perhaps, that's not a bad thing. Much has changed since, and much more needs to change if our small but ever growing Tajik community means to make a hold in this foreign land.

~*~*~*~*~

Last Sunday, on March 24th, the first guests began to trickle in around 5pm. First, a couple followed by a group of friends and then a small crowd came through the doors of Orion Palace. The guests  passed through the hallway, which was adorned with six stands, three on each side, on top of which were plates of wheat grass used for making sumanak. This is an easily recognizable sign for Nawruz, Tajik New Year which has its roots in ancient Persia. Three balloons floated between each stands, their colors corresponding to colors on the flag of Tajikistan: red, white and green. At the end of the hall there was a circular vestibule with three different doorways.

The one on the right lead the guests to a coat check-in window; doorway to the left led to an area with a table adorned with many Tajik wares. Behind the table, on the wall, there hang a large hand-woven tapestry, known to Tajiks as suzani. This area was purposefully prepared by the organizers of event, so that the guests could take memorable photographs next to something familiar, something dear to their hearts. And many did so, as can be seen from the work of professional photographer, Dan Culleton, who was hired for the job on Sunday evening.

Doorway in the center of vestibule led the guests to main hall of Orion Palace, where twenty five tables were setup for 300 guests. At the door, guests found their names next to a table number, and slowly made their way in. All was well until around 5:30 pm; a large crowd of guests appeared suddenly, as if they were waiting outside and decided to make their way together. This caused a slight panic among the organizers as they were hectically trying to place everyone. After all, this was the first event of such proportions in Brooklyn, New York, but an hour later, everyone was seated and entertainment program began.

Across the entrance, musicians were setting the stage. Kids were running on the dance floor; there were many of them that evening. Next to the stage, there was a table beautifully decorated with traditional symbolic items of Nawruz; these were various edible and non edible items names of which either began with letter "s" or "sh". Tradition has it that Nawruz table must have seven items from each letter, as to why it is so this author has not yet learned (just that number seven holds a special place in Tajik culture). In addition to sambusa (stuffed dough with meat), sabzi (carrots), seb (apples), sir (garlic, perhaps to ward off evil eye), sham (candle), shakar (sugar), and shona (comb), the table was also decorated with clay statuettes and dried fruits. These seemed to have attracted the kids more than anything; some of them didn't shy away from raiding the plates.

Perhaps the best feature by the stage was the kettle of sumanak, specially prepared for Nawruz celebration. This brown paste was cooked overnight using wheat sprouts, flour, whole walnuts, and some other secret ingredients only known to the womenfolk, as men traditionally are not allowed to participate in the cooking process. I personally had not tasted sumanak for 16 years until last Sunday evening; the flavor triggered pleasant memories of home.

Part of the program for the evening included Tajik music and songs, games and dance numbers both by adults and kids. Makhfirat Hamroqulova and Khurshed Alidodov were the highlight of musical performances. The trio dancers, namely KibriyoMakhmudova, Dilnoza Latipova and Shahnoza Tuichieva, burned the dance floor to the ground. They, at first, performed a separate regional dance, each girl representing one part of Tajikistan. Kibriyo, adorned in a Pamiri attire, shyly appeared on the stage first, followed gracefully by Dilnoz in a garb of Sogdian region. Shahnoza, who carried a doira (hand drum), moved energetically on the floor, and at the end of her dance, all the girls appeared together for the final number; their dancing excited our guests to such a degree that applause and cheering overshadowed the music. Significance of the dances symbolized unity of all the regions of Tajikistan, gracefully represented by girls.

Later during the evening, the men showed their prowess in a game of “tug of war”. Excitement was reigning and the energy of young Tajiks was evident as the game required several rematches. Of course, the ladies of the evening showed their own ability to pull the rope; some even threw away their high heels and jumped to pull the rope for solidarity. Everyone was a winner.

For me, the best part of the evening was to see so many kids running around. Nawruz is not just the Tajik/Persian New Year, a time for toiling the land and planting new harvest, but it is celebration of life. What is the best way to celebrate Nawruz if not with children, who often bring about the news of arrival of spring by carrying boichechak (crocus flower) in hand and running through the streets cheering, “Spring is here. Nawruz is here.” Last Sunday, the kids got a visit from Бобои Деҳқон (read: Bo-bo-ee Deh-qon, roughly, “grandpa land-tiller” symbolic of Nawruz), in a long purple overcoat and the blackest beard. He brought gifts of sweets in hopes of making their evening of music and dancing even more special.

The success of last Sunday’s event, celebration of Nawruz in Brooklyn, is evident by the number of guests who left Orion Palace hall with good memories. People are still talking about it. And this is a good thing. First time in sixteen years that I am here, I attended such a large event with such a rich entertainment, both by the organizers and by guests. Though first, many are hopeful that it is not the last time that Tajiks will gather in such large numbers for celebration of their unity. There are rumors now that another event is being planned in Brooklyn. Hopefully, those rumors will become a reality. In the meantime, here are few photographic memories from Nawruz 2013.

Red, White and Green, © Masrur Odinaev

View of entrance from vestibule, © Masrur Odinaev

For Memories, © Masrur Odinaev

Clay Musicians, © Masrur Odinaev

Main hall of Orion Palace, © Masrur Odinaev

kettle of sumanak, © Masrur Odinaev

7 shin-7 sin table, © Masrur Odinaev

Madina and Farangis explaining meaning of the Nawruz table, author of photograph unknown

The burning of dance floor by Shahnoza, Kibriyo and Dilnoza, author of photograph unknown

Kids are getting gifts